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 This is the original version of the Magnum Tank Adapter now referred to as the Tank to Valve Adapter. It is an original design that was produced and sold in 2015. It allows shorter barrels to be used than adapters that point the tank forward. By threading directly into the valve, pressure is contained within the adapter and valve so there is no pressure in the tube. No pressure in the tube means no need to modify the valve with stronger or extra mounting screws. The tank block can swivel, this allows the tank to be turned to the side when using a shooting rest or trying to get comfortable in an awkward position. The tank block will open the pin valve on your tank or regulator as you thread it on. It is a direct fit on 2250B, 2400KT and any custom build using a 2250B or 2400KT tube. If you know how to take your gun apart and put it back together you can easily install these parts. The tank block (front part of the adapter) is made of 6061-T6 aluminum. The valve adapter (part that threads into the tank block and valve) is made of 304 stainless steel. This listing is for the parts in the main photo, extra parts and guns are shown for demonstration only.

 This part is designed to allow mounting of a paintball tank directly or by remote coil. It can safely handle tanks with an output of up to 2200 PSI. Operating on 2200 PSI with a 24" barrel it can produce over 1000 FPS in .177 or .22 caliber. That performance can easily be produced using a Magnum Adjuster, Discovery striker spring and .177 10.5 grain or .22 14.3 grain pellets. With CO2 it will produce 500-700 FPS depending on barrel length, pellet weight, caliber and temperature of the shooting environment. The carbine in the second photo has a 14.5" .25 barrel, the pistol in the third photo has a 12" .22 barrel. At 2200 PSI both guns produce 750 FPS with 25.39 grain pellets, that's 32+ FPE.

 The prototype for this design was tested to 9500 PSI with absolutely no signs of leaking or failure. Destructive testing was also done on several samples. With the tank block clamped into a bench vice, I slipped a 24" steel pipe over the valve adapter to try and break the two pieces apart. After several tries pulling in opposite directions I was not able to break any of the test assemblies. No likely accident could cause that much abuse. When I took the test samples apart the threads were absolutely perfect and still threaded together within the original close tolerance. It is a very safe design. 

 The valve needs to be removed from your gun to install this adapter. The outer o-rings center it in the tube which reduces vibration, reduces noise and improves accuracy.

Included is a Discovery valve stem which enhances performance, durability and is needed to operate at higher pressures. 

 You will need to use some medium strength threadlocker (not included) on the adapter when you thread it into the valve body. Where to apply the threadlocker can be seen in the last photo. When the front part of the adapter swivels side to side the threadlocker prevents the adapter from unthreading from the valve.

 Barrels 8.25" or less will allow the adapter to swivel up blocking the front of the barrel. In that position a dangerous ricochet can occur. A barrel length of 9.5" or longer is recommended, that will reach past the front of the tank block.

 The gun in the photo is not a stock 2250 or 2400 but looks very similar other than not having a forearm. It has a shortened 2260 tube so the front end is not threaded. It is .25" longer than a 2250/2400 tube which is 10" long. This allowed me to put the barrel band at the front edge of the tube without fear of it being too thin there. With a 2250/2400 tube you should put the barrel band where it originally mounts, this is where the forearm will fit and the tube is strong enough for the set screw to snug down.