This is the new Magnum Airpower LLC flat-face valve and piston kit. The valve body, cap and piston head are machined from 7075 aluminum. The custom piston pin is machined from tool steel with radiused ends to match the internal tube contour. The piston base is machined from black Delrin for ultra-smooth pumping and to function as a compression buffer to help protect metal parts from excessive stress. The piston rides on the Delrin base and o-rings with no metal-to-metal contact to prevent scoring and wear. A drop of oil between the o-rings gets pushed back and forth when pumping to keep the tube and seals lubricated for optimal performance. More details and instructions are posted further down this page. The following chrony test results were produced with a 1377 and 1322 with different barrel lengths installed. Other upgrades to those models were limited to our custom .038" WD hammer springs and power adjusters for 13XX. 


4               10.03 g      .22              476.4        5.06      26"

12             10.03 g      .22              730.4      11.88      26"

17             10.03 g      .22              820.0      14.98      26"

4               14.3 g        .22              394.1        4.93      26"

12             14.3 g        .22              632.4      12.70      26"

17             14.3 g        .22              710.9      16.05      26"

12             25.39 g      .22              518.3      15.15      26"

17             25.39 g      .22              566.5      18.10      26"

4               10.03         .22              403.8       3.63       10.25"

12             10.03         .22              616.7       8.47       10.25"

17             10.03         .22              689.8       10.6       10.25"

6                14.3          .22              404.0       5.18       10.25"

12              14.3          .22              526.4       8.80       10.25"

17              14.3          .22              581.7      10.75      10.25"

12             25.39         .22              418.7       9.89        10.25"

17             25.39         .22              494.6     13.80        10.25"

6                5.71 g       .177            660.1        5.53      26"

12              5.71 g       .177            855.3        9.28      26"

17              5.71 g       .177            946.1      11.35      26"

8              13.43          .177            539.1        8.67      26"

12            13.43          .177            633.8       11.98      26"

17            13.43          .177            705.2       14.83      26"

4                5.71          .177            450.3        2.57       10.25"

8                5.71          .177            603.4        4.62       10.25"

12              5.71          .177            698.8        6.19       10.25"

8               10.5           .177            481.6        5.41        10.25"

10             10.5           .177            523.8        6.40        10.25"

12             10.5           .177            555.9        7.21        10.25"

17             10.5           .177            601.6        8.44        10.25"

8               13.43         .177             435.6       5.66        10.25"

12             13.43         .177             510.6       7.78        10.25"

17             13.43         .177             561.2       9.39        10.25"


 Once the piston is adjusted to length snug the locking collar down hand-tight. Do not use tools to torque it further, it will bulge the Delrin base causing it to bind in the tube. You can use a tiny bit of threadlocker on the piston threads if desired but this isn't generally necessary in most cases. If the piston is adjusted too long it won't allow air to enter the tube when the pump lever is in the open position. If the gun won't pump up then this may be the cause. The valve stem sticks further out then the original factory valve, it's necessary for the hammer to be in the cocked position for the valve to pressurize. 

 The valve exhaust port is radically angled to produce more power. Because it's angled the opening looks oval rather than round. This is not by mistake, it's supposed to be this way. The transfer port gasket fits and seals effectively with the .150" ID of the port, do not enlarge the port ID, it will not seal with the gasket correctly if you do. Further enlargement of the valve port will not gain more power, matching your transfer port and barrel port to the same .150" diameter will at higher numbers of pumps.

 12 Pumps or less is recommended for regular shooting, 13-17 will produce more power but causes the pivot-pin holes in the tube and pump lever to wear faster. They elongate over time and more force applied to them at high numbers of pumps speeds that process up. They can last for many years, even decades, if lubricated regularly and not over-stressed persistently. The Delrin piston base helps reduce wear by compressing slightly under high pressure, this acts as a buffer reducing stress on metal parts. 

 INSTALLATION :  You will need a wooden dowel to install the valve without damaging it or the tube. 1/2" Diameter by 12" or longer works well, hardwood is better but softwood will work also.

 The valve seals internally with an o-ring. The two halves should not be twisted tight together, there should be a slight gap between them. This allows the position of the port to be adjusted to either side after installation. Most 13XX tubes have those holes slightly out of alignment. Being able to adjust the port by twisting it to one side or the other is necessary for correct alignment. Once the valve is in position, put the trigger frame in place and install the front frame screw lightly, this holds the valve cap in place while you adjust the port. Use a pin punch, hobby paintbrush handle or similar object to gently turn the port until it's centered in the tube hole. Placing the gasket on top of the valve helps to check if it's centered. Once centered, push the valve in tight with the wooden dowel to make sure it's seated snugly against the stop in the tube, then remove the dowel and tighten the frame screw firmly.

 Our custom valves require a shorter piston length. The piston needs to be adjusted correctly to work well and avoid damaging the gun. The forearm should close with moderate resistance, not need to be forced. The piston should compress against the valve face with moderate clamping force to hold the forearm up snugly. Holding the valve stem open with the wooden dowel through the back of the tube allows you to test the piston while pumping. The air will escape through the barrel so you can feel the fit and function of the piston without pressure. If you have a stiff hammer-spring and/or power adjuster the hammer may hold the valve open when the bolt is not cocked. This helps check the piston adjustment the same way as using a wooden dowel.

 Once the piston is adjusted to length, snug the locking collar down with a pair of pliers while holding the base with a 3/16" pin punch or similar tool. Thick strips of folded paper, cardboard or leather can be wrapped around the locking collar to keep it from being marked by the pliers. Do not torque the collar too tight, just snug it down moderately or the Delrin base can bulge causing the piston to bind in the tube. You can use a tiny bit of threadlocker on the piston threads if desired but this isn't generally necessary and makes future adjustments difficult. If the piston is adjusted too long it won't allow air to enter the tube when the pump lever is in the open position. If the gun won't pump up then this may be the cause. The valve stem sticks further out then the original factory valve, it's often neccessary for the hammer to be in the cocked position for the valve to hold pressure.

 The o-rings for this valve and piston kit are two different durometers. The one for the first groove near the face of the piston is 90 D to produce more pressure and wear slower. The second piston o-ring needs to be the softer 70 D to install easier and reduce pumping effort. Either can be used for the valve. 90 D makes it harder to install the valve but tends to resist damage better during installation.

 Extra o-rings are included in case any are damaged during assembly. The piston o-rings should be replaced if they start to lose effectiveness. They are bagged separately and marked but it's also easy to tell which is softer by compressing them. The piston o-rings can last for years with regular use if oiled properly. Oiling instructions are covered below.

 Oil the outside of the valve, piston and seals before installing. We made these valves fit tighter than the original factory valves for performance reasons. They seal better at the o-ring and transfer-port gasket because there's less gap between the tube and valve. This reduces pressure loss during the firing cycle producing more power. The valve should be pushed into place with the wooden dowel. If your tube is bent, dented from hard pumping or has deep stamped lettering the valve may fit tight and need to be tapped in with the dowel and a hammer. If it fits excessively tight you can use a different tube or there's a simple way to fix your tube posted in the next paragraph. We tested dozens of new and used tubes to make sure they fit correctly in most cases. Only one in a dozen or so tubes will have issues. The valve is machined from solid 7075 aluminum, it's very hard and durable and won't generally be damaged from pushing firmly or tapping it in moderately hard. If it fits extremely tight it's better to start with a new tube or use the fix mentioned below. 

 HOW TO FIX TUBES THAT FIT THIS VALVE TOO TIGHT :   The valve can tend to get stuck where the stamped lettering starts on the tube, there's dimples from that inside. This happens with about 1 out of every 10tubes from our experience. The easiest fix is to use a small piece of sandpaper, wet/dry works best, 400-600 grit, to hone-out the high spots. If you use a 1/2" dowel or something similar like the straight section of a plastic coat-hanger, you can use a piece of duct tape to attach a 2" wide strip of the sand paper. Wrap it around the dowel and trim the length of the strip so the "sanding drum" you're creating fits comfortably snug (not tight) into the tube. Use a twisting motion to get the sandpaper in the tube without it unraveling. This will let you twist and hone the higher spots off so the valve will fit. Don't polish the inside of the tube too much, polishing will cause the piston seals to bind which makes it harder to pump and can damage the piston seal. We use a specially-made hone to do this which takes about 10 seconds. Even doing it with a dowel and sandpaper only takes a few minutes, you don't usually need to remove much material.

 OILING INSTRUCTIONS :  Variable-pump models should be assembled with oil to lube all the seals and moving parts. Add a drop of oil directly into the pump chamber every couple hundred shots. You can do this more often if the piston isn't working smooth or produces inconsistent performance. If you accidentally over-oil you can fire the gun with the barrel pointed straight up, unloaded and safely away from you. In that position excess oil settles near the valve stem and blows out through the barrel. To prevent oil-lock, only use two pumps for each shot until excess oil is cleared from the pump chamber and valve. A drop of oil should be applied to all pivot points of the pump lever and one at the back of the piston seal. This will lubricate the contact points of the piston. For flat-faced pistons, two drops of oil should be placed between the o-rings, this will spread it in both directions with every pump to seal better and reduce wear.

 An instructional video is in the works for installing and adjusting these parts along with our other custom 13XX upgrades. In the meantime do some research and make sure you understand how to install and use them. We are not responsible for damage you cause from installing or adjusting them incorrectly, they are intended for experienced customizers and builders.